Dhampus and Pothana: the ridge villages above Pokhara

Twenty minutes past the viewpoint everyone stops at, there are two working Gurung villages on a ridge with the whole Annapurna wall in front of them.

By Dawa Gurung · 5 min read · Updated 1 August 2026

Australian Camp is the meadow with the view. Dhampus is the village twenty-five minutes beyond it, and Pothana the one above that, and almost nobody who walks up from Kande goes to either.

They are the reason to make it a full day rather than a morning. Same trail, same view, and actual people living in it. This is the walk I recommend more than any other to visitors who have one free day.

Dhampus

A long Gurung village strung along the ridge at around 1,650 m, stone and slate, with the path running through the middle of it. Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre fill the northern sky from more or less anywhere in it.

It is a working village — buffalo, maize drying under the eaves, children walking to school — rather than a row of lodges. There are guesthouses, and they are quiet, and staying in one is one of the cheaper good nights available in Nepal. The best hour is early. Dhampus at dawn, with the mountains catching light and the village waking up around you, is the reason to sleep there rather than day-trip it.

Pothana and the trail on

Above Dhampus the path climbs into forest toward Pothana, a smaller settlement at around 1,900 m where the Mardi Himal and Annapurna Base Camp routes divide.

Standing at that junction is a good way to understand the geography of the whole region — one path goes up the ridge to Mardi, the other drops into the Modi Khola valley toward the Sanctuary.

It is also the practical answer for anyone thinking about Mardi. Walk to Pothana, look at the ridge, and decide.

The loop

Drive to Kande, walk up through Australian Camp to Dhampus, then down to Phedi on a different path and a taxi home. Five to six hours with the stops, and no backtracking.

Done in reverse — up from Phedi, down to Kande — the climb is steeper and the descent gentler, which suits some knees better. Tell your driver which way you are going.

Add Pothana and it becomes a full day; add a night in Dhampus and it becomes a small trek.

Why we keep sending people here

The ratio. Ninety minutes of climbing buys you an unobstructed 8,000-metre skyline, a real village, and a genuine trekking trail rather than a purpose-built path.

It also works as a test. This is the first section of Mardi Himal, so if you are wondering whether you would enjoy a multi-day trek, this is the exact terrain, and one day tells you. And it is close. You can leave Lakeside at seven and be back for a late lunch, which is not true of anything else with a view like this.

Walk it with us

Private departures on your dates, guided by the people who wrote this page.

Australian Camp Sunrise HikeFull day · 2,060 mRs 7,900 · See dates →Mardi Himal Trek5 days · 4,500 mRs 73,600 · See dates →Ghandruk Gurung Village Trek3 days · 2,012 mRs 30,700 · See dates →Panchase Hill Overnight Hike2 days · 2,500 mRs 17,300 · See dates →

Questions we get asked

Do I need a permit?

For the day walk to Australian Camp and Dhampus, generally not. Continuing beyond Pothana into the conservation area does. Tell us your plan and we will confirm.

Can I stay overnight?

Yes — Dhampus has simple guesthouses and they are rarely full. It is the version we would choose.

How hard is it?

About 400 m of climbing on stone path and steps, ninety minutes at a relaxed pace. Children manage it comfortably.

Is it the same as the Mardi Himal trek?

It is the first section of it. Which is exactly why it works as a trial run.

Australian Camp is the best two hours you can spend near PokharaA grassy shoulder at 2,060 m with nothing between you and Annapurna South. Also, it is not Australian, and never was.5 min read →Not sure you will like trekking? Try one day firstYou can find out whether multi-day walking in the Himalaya is for you in about six hours, on the exact terrain the real trek uses.5 min read →How many days have you got? A straight answer for every lengthMost trekking sites sort trips by mountain. You do not arrive with a mountain, you arrive with a number of free days. Here is what each number actually buys.8 min read →Four Pokhara day hikes, ranked by how little effort they needYou do not need a week and a permit to stand in front of the Annapurnas. Here are the four walks we send people on when they have one free morning.6 min read →

Still deciding?

Tell us your dates and how much walking you have actually done, and we will tell you honestly whether this trek is the right one for you.

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